Story

When “Persophilia" Swept America

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Authors: John Ghazvinian

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Spring 2026 | Volume 71, Issue 2

Editor’s Note: John Ghazvinian is an Iranian-born historian and former journalist. His recent book American and Iran: A History, 1720 to the Present offers a rich, fascinating overview of U.S.-Iran relations going back to America’s founding. Ghazvinian’s scholarship shows that the current rivalry between Iran and the U.S. was not inevitable; indeed, there was a time when relations between the two countries were “animated by a spirit of common respect and mutual understanding.”

Once upon a time in Iran, there was a city that gave men butterflies. Centuries before the ayatollah, before the shah—before even Muhammad and Jesus Christ shook up their respective corners of the Middle East—the emperors of Persia had built one of the most magnificent capital cities the world had ever known. It was called Persepolis—literally, the "city of Persians." And such was its reputation that even the mightiest of princes, as they saw it coming slowly into view after days and weeks of trekking across the desert, could feel themselves reduced to nervous wrecks. Once a year, in ancient times, on the first day of spring, rulers of the twenty-eight great kingdoms that Persia had conquered were expected to journey to Persepolis to pay tribute to their lord and master, the “King of Kings." And they never failed to carry out this duty.

Just as Americans looked past the radicalism of the Arab world and found a "nicer Middle East" on its periphery, Iranians looked past Europe and found a "nicer West."

At its height in the fifth century B.C., the Persian Empire ruled over 60 million of the world's 100 million people—making Persepolis, for all intents and purposes, the capital city of all humanity. But like so many other imperial projects, the famous "city of Persians" long ago went the way of all souls. Burned and pillaged by Alexander the Great and his army of conquering Greeks in 330 B.C. (legend has it they required three thousand camels to cart away all its gold and jewels), its columns still reach proudly into the cloudless blue sky, in one of the most remote and unpopulated corners of Iran. Today, though, it is not Sogdian princes but busloads of tourists—Japanese, Germans, occasionally even Americans— who are driven across the vast, hot, and flat Morqab Plain to pay their tribute.

palace of darius
At its height in the fifth century B.C., Persepolis was one of the world's most magnificent cities. Princes and royal subjects from across the empire would travel to the capital to visit the palaces of Darius and Xerxes and pay homage to the Achaemenid kings. New York Public Library

And as modern visitors scramble among ancient tombs and statues, snapping pictures and admiring what is left of the palaces of Darius and Xerxes, they often notice, just off to the side, a rusting metal grandstand—rows of empty spectator seating rising like bleachers at a high school football field. These are the ruins of much more recent emperor.

In October